Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Easter at the islands

Happy Easter everyone ! Easter is a very big deal here as Flores is a predominantly Roman Catholic island and Larantuka, at the eastern end of the island, is especially famous for its Holy Week and Easter weekend celebrations. This year is the 500th anniversary of the Portuguese arrivals here and so was a specially significant celebration and many people from Maumere and all over Flores made their way there for the weekend.

I, on the other hand, went in the opposite direction. West of Maumere along the north coast of Flores are the towns of Mbay and Riung. Mbay is home to two volunteers - Mikal from Ohio and Brenda from the Philipines. They were interested in travelling to Riung (a little further west than Mbay) and visiting the 17 Islands National Park so I decided to join them.
The trip from Maumere to Mbay is an eight to hour nine hour bus journey along the most appalling road imaginable. As with most Asian countries, public transport here is pretty basic and buses are usually massively overloaded.
 
As you can see, my bus was approved to carry 23 passengers, which  seems sensible as there were 23 seats. However, when the bus arrived at the pickup point all the seats were already full. However, that's never an obstacle so we all just piled in and set off with two or three to a seat, a few hanging out of the doors and about eight on the roof. Fifty four people in all, one goat, a number of chickens and too many sacks of rice to count...


After eight hours of this plunging up and down hills on mostly unsurfaced roads (with just one 30 minute stop) I made it to Mbay and met with Brenda and Mikal. The next day we travelled on to Riung on a motorbike (borrowed from the brother-in-law of a Maumere friend I met on the bus !) and found a small rather rundown hotel with a very friendly owner called Simeon.

Simeon arranged a boat for us for the following day and came us with on our trip to the islands. We left the harbour at about 8am and returned at about 4pm.We visited a few islands, one of which is home to the most enormous bat population I have ever seen.
   
 
Later we visited our own private desert island for a delicious lunch cooked on the beach by Simeon and stopped at about four separate locations for some great snorkelling.


 
Leo, our captain, cleaning the fish for lunch


Mikal & Brenda on our desert island


A house near the harbour at Riung





On Sunday we were invited to have lunch at the home of a friend (the guy who lent me his brother-in-law's motorbike) near Mbay. A very relaxing afternoon spent sitting under a mango tree chatting and being watched by lots of big eyes...
Then, on Monday morning it was back to the bus terminal for a 7am departure for Maumere, arriving home exactly nine hours later. Worth every minute of it.... 
 


     
     

5 comments:

  1. Mark, the Lion-heart! Nine hours in a crowded bus with no regard to health and safety and government regulations and restrictions. I fear I would have chickened out of that trip and stayed at home with my feet up! But you are determined to experience all the wonders Indonesia has to offer and you are so right! I salute you!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Did every seat have a correctly fitted seat-belt?

    ReplyDelete
  3. I shuddered at your photos of the bats - yeuch. The beaches on the other hand were stunning! That was an interesting Easter anyway, can't imagine what those bus journeys must be like with the heat and over-crowding and bad roads - the old body must be a bit shook up by the time it crawls off the bus 9 hours later?! We went up and down to Mayo in the day on Easter Sunday for a family Christening - the new Dublin-Galway road is brill, you can compare road experiences when you are back!!!

    ReplyDelete
  4. @ KidSis, what do you think ??? We were stopped twice by police who made all the guys on the roof get inside which made it even more crammed, of course as soon as we were around the next corner they all climbed out and up on top again (without the bus stopping of course !)

    ReplyDelete
  5. Dear Mark,

    I arrived at your weblog searching for Simeon at Google. About two years ago this kind guy arranged a trip for us, just like he did for you. Not until after the trip we found out that the bank at Riung was closed and we didn't carry enough money with us, so we weren't able to pay him. He gave us his bank account to make the payment from somewhere else, but unfortunately some address details are missing, so now back in the Netherlands we still haven't succeeded paying him his salary. Is there any way that you could help us or provide us with the lacking information? Maybe you know some people who live in the area? Hope to hear from you soon! Kind regards, Laetitia (laetiets(at)yahoo.com)

    ReplyDelete