Nyepi

I've already posted about the daily offerings that Balinese families leave at the temples in their homes, outside their gate, and even in the middle of busy road junctions. These are just one of many examples of how inextricably Bali's religion (Hinduism) and daily life are linked together, and visible to everyone.

This week, as Ireland celebrates St. Patrick's Day, the island is grinding to a halt as the Balinese start a series of religious celebrations that will last for more than a week. This Wednesday is Galungan which is probably best described as a thanksgiving celebration. Every temple has been decked out in new finery (yellow cloths etc.) and the streets are lined with penjors (tall decorated bamboo poles) at the entrance to every house or family compound (Balinese families never seem to move very far away from each other !) .
The womenfolk have been busy cooking all sorts of delicacies for the feasting ahead while the men traditionally spent yesterday slaughtering for the feast. Pak Agung told me that the tradition was to catch and kill a turtle but due to western "influence", an unfortunate pig is now the usual victim. Last weekend I saw a small truck with about ten large trussed and kicking pigs on their final journey and yesterday as I cycled back from school,I saw a slaughtering taking place at a banjar (local village meeting place) near where I am staying.

Next week sees Nyepi (the Balinese New Year). Bali has its own calendar which has six months, each containing 35 days (i.e. 210 days in a year). The festival of Nyepi is quite extraordinary - it starts the previous day with all sorts of celebrations and riotous partying culminating in a symbolic driving of the evil spirits into the sea. From 6 am onwards for twenty four hours , the island (yes, all of it !) remains completely silent so that the spirits will think that the island is deserted and will go elsewhere. Every school and business remains closed and everyone stays at home (I mean this quite literally - nobody will even consider leave their home for the whole day for any reason whatsoever other than imminent death or childbirth) and the streets will be completely deserted except for the traditional security police who will be patrolling to ensure that Nyepi is being observed properly. Every home will be quiet, with no fires, no visible lights, no TV or radio, and plenty of time for quiet personal reflection. Even the airport will be closed and the beaches will be deserted for the day - the only exception seems to be emergency hospital services. Unfortunately, this coincides with my week long field visit to Flores so I won't experience it for myself (Nyepi is a Balinese festival and is not observed in other parts of Indonesia, or indeed, in other Hindu countries).