On Sunday, I headed off to Ende which is on the south coast about 160kms away, journey time about 4.5 hours plus a couple of stops for lunch and saddle relief. Ende is overwhelmingly Muslim so my timing was not very good as everything was shut for the holiday on Sunday (the end of Ramadan is marked by family visits to friends and neighbours houses). The small hotel I found fortunately served evening meals as all the restaurants were shut and, even better, had fish and chips on the menu ! Ende is surrounded by hills and is approached by a steep descent down a river valley with spectacular scenery - the town itself is pretty unremarkable.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Ende, Moni and swimming
On Sunday, I headed off to Ende which is on the south coast about 160kms away, journey time about 4.5 hours plus a couple of stops for lunch and saddle relief. Ende is overwhelmingly Muslim so my timing was not very good as everything was shut for the holiday on Sunday (the end of Ramadan is marked by family visits to friends and neighbours houses). The small hotel I found fortunately served evening meals as all the restaurants were shut and, even better, had fish and chips on the menu ! Ende is surrounded by hills and is approached by a steep descent down a river valley with spectacular scenery - the town itself is pretty unremarkable.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Dirgahayu Republik Indonesia !
We were lucky to have about two hours of great visibility there before the clouds started to roll in.
After our brief holiday we returned to Maumere on Sunday afternoon, just in time for a day off on Monday to celebrate Indonesia's 64th birthday.
The day started with Apel (formal parade) at 7 am in the main public field in the town, with the Chief Inspector being the Bupati (regent). The Bupati is elected every five years at district level so the one in Maumere is responsible for the Sikka District, population about 300,000, of which Maumere is the principal town. This morning's 7am Apel finally got under way at 7.55 (not unusual) and consisted of a few formalities and most surprisingly, no speeches ! The main event was the reading of the declaration of independence and the raising of the flag.
The long delay and the relentless sun (even at that hour) took their toll on many of the schoolchildren on parade and I counted more than twenty fainting just in the section in front of me. As well as most of the schools in Maumere, all government departments, army and police were represented, together with the drum majorettes.
I have just tried to upload a video clip for the first time but the connection won't stay up for long enough to complete the upload - sorry !
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Moni, the hospital party and mud, glorious mud
Ok, the internet seems to be faster than usual here today so I'm going to take the opportunity to include lots of photos in this post..
After the excitement of finally getting my KITAS last Saturday, three of us from Maumere headed off to Moni in the mountains on Saturday afternoon to meet Dany, my programme manager from the VSO office in Denpasar who was here on a holiday trip for the weekend with some friends before a few meetings on Flores next week. The trip to Moni seemed much easier this time around than the last time, I think that the inside of my helmet has now adjusted somewhat to the shape of my head and I'm able to wear it for much longer periods before the discomfort becomes too much, also I'm better used to going around endless corners ion steep hills. As usual, Moni was a lovely spot – we didn't go up to the lakes this time around but chilled out (literally – Moni is about 1600m high and so much cooler than Maumere) on Saturday night.
On Sunday morning I left at about 10.30 am as I wanted to get back for the hospital party at Sao beach near Maumere. This was partly a farewell for Dr. Hendradi, an ENT specialist who is leaving the hospital soon after two years here but mainly just an excuse for a party for hospital employees and their families. There were about two hundred people there, including lots of children and plenty of party games (including one which involved transporting leeches in a glass of water...).
The first group I met on arrival was the breakaway "adult" group, engaged in a more traditional Maumere activity !
Echae McQueen, chief MC for the day :
Pak Edmon on keyboard, still going after last Thursday's wedding !
Dewa, the hospital gardener, strikes a cool pose in my sunglasses...
Okto and Igo skiing in the sand
A serious spectator..
Marlena and Ika
Igo & Okto celebrate something or other (probably the end of another bottle..)
Igo with a covering of soy sauce after one particularly messy game
Transporting leeches (well, it is a hospital after all...)
Echae rallies support
Ika
Party games
Dr. Asep always organising
Monday was a tanggal merah (literally, a red day which means it's a holiday) so the morning was spent relaxing and reading Patrick Leigh Fermor's fascinating account of a walking tour from London to Constantinople in 1933 and 1934 (sent to me all the way from Canada – thanks, Robert !). In the afternoon I headed out with Daniel, who works in the blood transfusion unit in the hospital, to explore the coastline west of Maumere and travelled about 45kms along far better roads (and flatter too) than I experienced between here and Moni. Some really spectacular scenery, with rice paddies in the foreground and mountains behind, and also some sunbathing water buffalos. My journey took me into the Kabupaten (regency) of Ende, the next one to Sikka (which is Maumere's Kabupaten).
Daniel with rice paddies in the foreground.
Flores is at the top of this map - Sikka District is the purple one towards the eastern end of the island and Maumere is on the north coast.
Cooling off..
Monday, July 13, 2009
22 weeks later
Not that I'm counting of course, but it is quite amazing how time flies (or maybe not flies, but passes anyway). It's hard to believe that I arrived in Indonesia not able to speak a single word of Bahasa Indonesia this day 22 weeks ago and here I am, five months later, not able to speak a single word of.... I jest of course ! Language is still a problem, especially in staff meetings at the hospital but normal conversation is becoming easier and easier, especially when the person you are talking to makes some allowances ! Anyway, another week dawns in Maumere and I am STILL waiting for the wheels of bureaucracy to grind their way towards issuing my KITAS visa with no sign of an imminent result.Last week, we had a day off on Wednesday for the presidential election. This was only Indonesia's second ever democratic presidential election (the first was in 2004) but it didn't seem to raise much excitement here at any rate (apart from the novelty of having a day off !). Next week we have another day off on Monday (for the ascension of the Prophet Mohammed) so a few of us are thinking of using the rare opportunity of having two consecutive days to visit Moni again.
Some of my readers (both of them, in fact) have asked me to write a little more about the hospital and my work. The hospital is a 200 bed unit which serves a district with a population of about 300,000 people. The current hospital opened in about 1996 as far as I can work out and replaced one which was destroyed in the earthquake and resulting tsunami of 1992. About 1500 people died in Maumere in that earthquake and many of the town's buildings were destroyed, with a total of 90,000 being left homeless in the region. According to the US Geographical Survey, the wave ran inland for about 300 metres with a height of 25 metres. The hospital has two operating theatres and carries out procedures such as hernia repairs, appendectomies, and many Caesarean sections (between 1500 and 2000 babies are born in the hospital every year). The pace of work is generally much much slower than at home – some of this is due to the language problem but even if I were completely fluent, I would still not be working at the same pace as home. A lot of time is spent on social chatting here and meetings are really something else – the discipline (or lack of it) about use of mobile phones would have any meeting chairman in the west tearing their hair out. It is seen as quite normal to sit in a meeting, and not only send and receive text messages but also to receive calls and chat away while the meeting proceeds around you. Frequently, the meeting stalls while the chairperson answers their phone too... Recently, I have been helping out with a complaints survey. About 5,000 questionnaires have been distributed to wards, outpatient departments, local health centres, etc. seeking feedback from the local community about the hospital's facilities. While the methodology is maybe a little flawed (there is a preset list of complaints and participants are asked to say "yes" or "no" to each one), the results are proving to be quite predictable. The only problem with this is that someone has to summarise all of the returned forms - anyway, I guess it's good practice for my counting in Indonesian as we enter the results on a spreadsheet. Other tasks on hand for this week are an email appeal to a number of five star hotels in Bali to ask for cast-off bedsheets and blankets and to complete my first quarterly report for VSO. This is in preparation for my first placement visit which will take place after about six months in placement but it provides a useful opportunity to have a formal discussion about how the placement has been going and maybe adjust priorities and objectives.
Appeals : as mentioned above, mobile phone usage here is very high and everybody has a HP (hand phone). However, unlike at home, these are all personally owned rather than being provided by employers and are a significant investment for their owners. Also, there is no system of upgrades after a year or two and as they are a relatively recent phenomenon, there is no big pool of old phones available. This means that when a phone gets lost or broken, buying a replacement is a very big deal indeed. I know of some people whose phones have died and they now carry around a SIM card in their wallet and use their friends' phones to send and receive messages. So, if anyone has any old phones at home (with charger) I could do with a couple of them. They will need to be unlocked from the network at home before sending but this usually can be done quite easily. If anyone can help, send me an email.
While I'm at it - another appeal, this one for me. If anyone has any old paperbacks that they don't want, pass them on to my mother and she will make up a parcel and send them out to me. There are enough English speaking volunteers here to arrange a book exchange, we just need a few more books ! I'm not too fussy about what I read so long as it's well written – just avoid ones with pink covers !
In other news – the hospital yesterday admitted its first patient with suspected swine flu. The patient is a Dutch citizen who arrived here very recently but the diagnosis is not yet confirmed.
And finally, happy birthday to my parents today (yes, they share the same birthday) !
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Kelimutu
The weekend before last, we (Peter, my fellow hospital volunteer and I) had the opportunity to visit one of the "must see" sights of Flores in the company of some friends who were visiting from Kupang on the island of Timor. These are the three coloured lakes of Kelimutu, about 1650m high in the hills of Flores and about 100km east of Maumere. 100kms, I hear you say, that's an easy enough trip...
Well, I can tell you that a 100km trip with two people on a 160cc motorbike on the tortuous roads of Flores is an undertaking and a half ! We left Maumere at about 11am and reached Moni (the village near the lakes) after a trip of over 3 hours actual travelling time, with frequent stops for lunch and helmet rests. Moni is a small village high in the mountains (and beautifully cool, I needed a long sleeved top there for the very first time since arriving in Indonesia) and has a small bar with a great view over rice paddies and green hills. We stayed in a family run homestay (Rp75,000 or €5 for two people including breakfast), and spent some of Saturday night watching a local traditional dance performance before partaking of some of the local hooch.
Early the next morning, we headed further up the hills to the lakes of Kelimutu. These are three lakes in volcanic craters – not particularly unusual in an area known for its volcanic activity until you hear that they are all different colours and that the colours change from time to time depending on changes in mineral composition, making this quite a spectacular sight. When we visited, the lakes were vivid turquoise, black and a sort of murky brown. Local legend has it that this is where the souls of the departed end up, young people to one lake, old people to another, and those whose lives have been less than exemplary to another (you are probably guessing that that's the black one but it isn't).
While at the lakes, most of the other visitors were Indonesian and, as usual, I was engaged in conversation by many of them (many Indonesians are delighted to get an opportunity to practice their English language skills). One of the people I met there was Andrew from Timor. He is a student at the seminary in Ledalero, about 10km away from Maumere. As he visits Maumere frequently, I expect to see him again for some mutually beneficial conversation practice.
The worst part of visiting the lakes was the journey back home again on Sunday – another long and twisty trip, this time mostly downhill back to sea level. However, the weekend was well worth it as this was our first opportunity to see some of the spectacular countryside of Flores and experience just how long it takes to get anywhere. There are frequent bus services linking most towns on the island but I have yet to enjoy the delights of one of these journeys. Apparently, conditions can be a little cramped (the passengers' luggage is often alive) and the twisty roads mean that many passengers suffer from travel sickness so it sounds like a motorbike is a "fresher" option.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Photo update
Click for the appropriate album :
MAUMERE
MONI & KELIMUTU
To view all my albums on Photobucket and pass a completely unproductive hour or two, either click HERE or go to :
http://s492.photobucket.com/albums/rr289/markhenderson_photos/



