Seventeen years on..

Today (12th December) is the anniversary of the earthquake which hit Maumere and nearby islands such as Pulau Babi in 1992, resulting in the loss of more than 2,500 lives and the destruction of most of the buildings in the town, including the hospital. The current hospital was opened on a new site in 1998.

I have found it quite odd how little I have heard about this event given how recent it is (only 17 years ago) and how destructive it was. The little I have heard has been fragments of stories from colleagues at work and has had to be dragged out of them. I think that this lack of information is probably due to a number of factors :

• People here die young anyway. As I've already mentioned, life expectancy in Indonesia is much lower than in Ireland (68 years compared to 80, according to the WHO) so there are fewer people around who remember what happened and also the death of people at a young age is accepted as more commonplace than in developed countries. This situation has improved significantly recently so life expectancy in 1992 must have been even lower.
  

• There is generally a reluctance to talk about "bad things". This is connected to the strong animist traditions that sit by side with the Christian (mainly Roman Catholic) ethos in Flores. I've noticed that there is a great reluctance to talk about these bad things and I frequently hear "Satan" being mentioned !

• I find it hard to imagine what life in Maumere and the surrounding areas must have been like seventeen years ago. Internet access here even today is limited and unreliable, and there was certainly no internet access here at the time of the earthquake. Today, almost nobody here has a camera so there were probably no photographic records of what happened and also the heat means that dead bodies have to be dealt with extremely quickly so the whole business of dealing with funerals was probably over within a day or so. It's still possible to see where some of the town has been rebuilt (but never quite finished !).

Surveys, snorkels and spuds

It seems like a while since I've updated here so greetings to all of you in recession land. At the level I am working at, Indonesia is fairly recession proof – as one person said to me last weekend "when you don't have very much, you have little to lose". People here, as in most developing countries, generally live a hand to mouth existence with little by way of luxury or treats.

Since my last post, I spent two days (last Friday & Saturday) attending a workshop in the hospital which focused on complaints from the local community. This was quite a progressive idea and is a good example of the proactive style of the hospital director. The workshop, which was facilitated by GTZ, the German aid agency, had about 80 participants representing various stakeholders – former patients and their families, outpatient clinic clients, clients of the laboratory and blood transfusion service, etc. One of the activities of the workshop was an exercise in actual gathering complaints from those attending and the principal outcome was the compilation of a draft survey for monitoring future satisfaction levels.

It was very interesting to see the very genuine complaints and concerns that former patients and their families raised – here are some examples :

• Lack of personnel available – no doctor or nurse in attendance in various clinics and departments.
  
• Punctuality – late arrival of doctors for clinics
  
• Corruption – security guards seeking bribes of money or cigarettes for allowing visitors in outside official visiting hours
  
• Poor hygiene – smelly beds, dirty toilets, mosquitoes
  
• Lack of communication to patients
  
• Nursing staff busy texting on their mobile phones instead of looking after patients
  

Does any of this sound familiar ?

After the mental strain involved in trying to keep up with this for two days (and believe me, it was a struggle) it was great to have day off on Sunday. As I've mentioned before, Maumere is the home for a number of volunteers working in various different VSO programmes so there is a good social network available. Last weekend was the occasion of Jo Marie's last weekend in Maumere as her placement ends this week. Jo Marie has been here for three years (most placements are for two years but she extended for a further year so is almost a native now) and she is returning home to the Philippines for a month's holiday before starting work with GTZ in East Timor. To mark her departure, she arranged a day trip to Pulau Babi (Pig Island) so early on Sunday morning, we saddled up and rode about 60kms north east of Maumere to Darat Pantai, near Talibura where Pak Karno, a colleague from Jo's workplace lives. Karno had arranged for a local boatman to take us to the beach on the island where we enjoyed some fine snorkelling and a great BBQ on the beach with some fish Jo bought en route. On the way back home after our day in the sun, there was the most amazing pink sunset. This volunteering in developing countries really is a tough life, you know....

After the weekend, Peter (my housemate) and I decided that the lack of any visible progress on the housing front was no reason to put off embarking on some self catering forever and we took the plunge and purchased a stove (cost about Rp180,000 = €13). Household kitchens here are generally basic in the extreme with a stove (usually kerosene but sometimes gas if you can afford it), a rice cooker (if the household is fortunate enough to have electricity) and a collection of bowls, buckets and utensils (usually no sink). We bought an oil stove, oil and some bowls and tonight (Tuesday) had our first home cooked meal at home. We decided to mark the occasion by going western (lunch had been gado-gado) and so the menu for the first meal was sautéd potatoes and fried eggs... not exactly a typical Indonesian evening meal.